62-летняя Бобби Браун произвела революцию в мейкап-индустрии в 1980-х. Она одной из первых решила уйти от яркого макияжа и вместо этого воспевала естественную красоту женщины. Ее идея создать простую линию из 10 помад превратилась в многомиллионный бизнес — компанию Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, которую она возглавляла более 25 лет. В 2016 году после написания девяти книг по красоте, создания семьи и ведения бизнеса Браун решила уйти из бренда, носящего ее имя, и начать все заново.
Бобби Браун родилась 14 апреля 1957 года в Чикаго, штат Иллинойс. Будучи подростком, она мечтала стать высокой, худой блондинкой, похожей на популярных моделей того времени. Ей нравилась актриса Шерил Тигс — голубоглазая блондинка, которую Браун считала идеалом красоты.
Как признается Бобби, она почувствовала себя привлекательной только после того, как посмотрела “Историю любви” (Love Story) с Эли Макгроу, у которой был практически незаметный макияж.
Так и родился мой стиль макияжа,
— сказала Браун.
Окончив бостонский колледж Эмерсона по специальности “театральный гример” (там же она изучала фотографию), Бобби переехала в Нью-Йорк, чтобы стать профессиональным визажистом. Однако первое время девушка работала официанткой, чтобы хоть как-то свести концы с концами. Потом Бобби стала обзванивать редакции и предлагать свои услуги по визажу.
О том, как стать визажистом в 1990-х
Девушка долго работала для коммерческих съемок, прежде чем ее стали звать в глянцевые издания. Первой была съемка для журнала Glamour в 1981 году. В 1984 году Бобби создает образ в стиле диско для Vogue, а спустя всего три года для этого журнала в сотрудничестве с Патриком Демаршелье снимает свою первую обложку и принимает участие в шоу Опры Уинфри. Настоящим прорывом в ее карьере стала обложка для сентябрьского Vogue в 1987-м с Наоми Кэмпбелл.
Я начинала как визажист-фрилансер. Я безумно влюбилась, вышла замуж, а затем переехала в Монклер (штат Нью-Джерси), прямо в тот день, когда я вернулась из медового месяца. Я была нью-йоркским визажистом, жила в пригороде, воспитывала ребенка и работала с Vogue. Это было интересное время,
— говорила она.
Работая с такими фотографами, как Брюс Уэбер, Бриджит Лакомб и Патрик Демаршелье, я поняла, что кожа и губы должны выглядеть абсолютно естественно. Макияж был призван подчеркнуть природную красоту, а не создать искусственный образ,
— вспоминает Бобби.
Основательница империи Bobbi Brown Cosmetics
Я решила выпустить линию нюдовых помад под собственной маркой. Она должна была ничем не пахнуть и выглядеть как сами губы, только лучше. Я не могла найти косметику, которая бы безупречно смотрелась на коже. Приходилось “настраивать” средства, чтобы макияж получился как можно более естественным. Вот так все и началось. Я никогда не думала, что это станет чем-то большим, нежели просто выпуск помады,
— говорит Бобби.
Совместно с ученым-химиком она разработала Brown Lip Color розово-коричневого оттенка. За ней последовали девять других нюдовых оттенков. В 1991 году, когда 10 оттенков помады Бобби дебютировали в нью-йоркском универмаге Bergdorf Goodman, они моментально произвели фурор.
В первый же день Бобби продала 100 помад — ровно столько, сколько она рассчитывала продать за месяц. Потом линия поступила в продажу в знаменитом британском универмаге Harrod’s, где тоже была раскуплена за пару дней.
Спустя год Бобби представила линию тональных кремов с желтым подтоном (нонсенс для того времени), а в 1995-м дополнила коллекцию средствами для ухода. В этом же году ее компанию купила корпорация Estée Lauder (сумма сделки не разглашается; по некоторым сведениям, она обошлась в 74,5 миллиона долларов), но Браун осталась в составе руководства.
Когда сделка состоялась, мне сказали, что руководство корпорации поражено моим успехом. Они хотели помочь развитию моего бизнеса, пока я занимаюсь тем, что люблю,
— сказала она тогда.
О разнообразии оттенков
Браун задолго до Рианны продвигала идею инклюзивности оттенков.
Если у вас есть линия косметики, у вас должны быть средства, подходящие для каждого оттенка кожи. Например, в Великобритании живут люди с очень светлой кожей с розовато-белым подтоном. Для них тоже нужен свой оттенок тонального. Помню, как меня пригласили делать макияж для CoverGirl несколько лет назад. В съемке участвовала модель, красивая девушка с самой темной кожей, которую я когда-либо видела. Так вот, не было ни одного тонального средства, которое подошло бы ей. Когда я создавала свою коллекцию тональных средств, я специально включила в нее средство в оттенке “эспрессо”. К сожалению, девушки используют этот темный цвет для контуринга (хотя я не фанатка этой техники).
Это было невероятно, сколько раз люди, отвечающие за маркетинг, говорили мне, что этот оттенок надо перестать выпускать, потому что продается его крайне мало. Я настаивала, что это исключено,
— рассказывала она в интервью.
Бобби всегда считала, что все женщины прекрасны без макияжа, но правильный мейк делает их красивыми и сильными. В 2010 году она представила кампанию Pretty Powerful, в рамках которой рассказала миру о реальных женщинах из разных сфер жизни. В 2013 году она запустила кампанию Pretty Powerful Campaign for Women and Girls. Эта глобальная инициатива посвящена финансированию некоммерческих организаций, стремящихся расширить возможности образования для женщин и девочек.
Книги о красоте
Бобби Браун — автор семи книг о красоте и макияже. Ее первое произведение “Красота по Бобби Браун” вышло в 1997 году. В 2010 году визажистка выпустила “Красоту для подростков”. В ней она в первую очередь рассказывает, как нужно правильно ухаживать за кожей, а уже после учит основам макияжа. В 2001 году предпринимательница вместе с Аннемари Айверсон издала книгу под названием “Книга красоты. Найди свой стиль”. В своей следующей книге “Эволюция красоты” Бобби решила поднять важный вопрос для женщин: как же нравиться самой себе в разном возрасте.
В 2007 году вышла книга “Живая красота”, о том, почему не стоит стремиться подгонять себя под принятые стандарты. Следующая работа Бобби — “Макияж. Для новичков и профессионалов” — это сотни конкретных советов по мейкапу. Книга “Правила красоты” ориентирована на молодых девушек. В 2012 году была издана “Сила красоты”. Для ее написания Бобби взяла интервью у женщин разных профессий и возрастов. К сожалению, из всех ее книг на русский переведены всего две.
О жизни после ухода из Bobbi Brown Cosmetics
Я воспитала трех сыновей, я замужем уже более 30 лет. Это те вещи, которыми я больше всего горжусь. Я ушла из компании два с половиной года назад и заново открыла свою жизнь и себя. Я не могу сказать, что занялась своими хобби: вместо того чтобы расслабиться и заняться теннисом или гольфом, я основала еще пять новых компаний. Я люблю быть занятой,
— сказала она.
Один из последних проектов визажистки — бренд БАДов, но кто знает, может, совсем скоро мы увидим еще пару книг о макияже ее авторства. Ее муж занимается проектом развития отеля. В отеле — 31 номер, и, кажется, дела идут в гору. Браун занимается пиаром и маркетингом. Она также публикует контент на своем сайте JustBobbi.com и ведет подкаст под названием Long Story Short.
Бобби Браун с сыновьями
Бобби Браун с Риз Уизерспун
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